Shivpuri
The summer capital of the rajas of Gwalior in its verdant confines amongst the undulating hills offered a respite from the searing heat. The Madhav Vilas Palace served up a more leisurely pace with hunts and picnics in the nearby forests. Located at this old summer retreat are two grand cenotaphs set in a serene garden for two Gwalior royals. The Madhav National Park where there are no tigers left (only chital, chinkara, chousingha and blackbuck roam the woods now) is still good for birding and crocodile spotting. In the sanctuary you'll come upon a vacant two-tiered hunting lodge; this is George Castle, built by Maharaja Jivaji Rao Scindia for a hunting party an arranged for King George Vin 1911.

Dajia
Cut off from the dust and chaos of the tiny town of Datia by the rocky perch upon which it stands are the remnants of a multi-tiered Nursing Dev Palace, built by Maharaja Bir Singh Deo of Orchha (50km). Looking out of one of the jali screens you get delightful views of the two serene lakes by the hillock on which it stands. Amongst its apartments, you can still see some of the original murals, tile work and lattice frames.

Orchha
Its picturesque palaces and ancient temples set along the gentle Betwa River have captured the hearts of countless travellers, artists and photographers down the decades.

The old town is filled with remnantss of old havelis and temples reflecting vivid nuances of its colourful past seamlessly in step with its modern avatar. Their architectural lines and embellishments of delectable murals are an integral feature of their agedefying charms. Take the audiio tour by Madhya Pradesh Tourism (MPTDC desk at Hotel Sheesh Mahal) to explore this medieval township.

The Raj Mahal, begun by Rudra Pratap, was completed by Madhukar Shah. The pious Madhukar Shah initiated the setting up of several apartment, Rani-Ka-Mahal, was illustrated with vignettes from the Ramayana. The palace reveals many trappings of a royal home with its great staterooms, decorative balconies and lavish lattice work. Walls and ceilings were richly embellished. The Jehangir Mahal is commemorated to Jehangir, the visiting Mughal emperor Orchha during the 22 year rule of the illustrious Raja Bir Deo, his successor. It has a splendid ceremonial gateway to the central countryard.

Rai Praveen Mahal and the Sheesh Mahal (now run as a hotel by the state tourism department) are also worth a visit. Within the fort, explore the famous Ram Raja Mandir where Lord Rama is worshipped as a king not as a god, The Laximinaraian Mandir (for its murals), and Chaturbuj Mandhir - Orchha's largest temple and built for an idol of Rama from Ayodhya, Legend has it that the idol 'refused' to be moved to its new home and is still worshipped at Rani-Ka-Mahal where it awaited the completion of the Chaturbhuj Mandir. By the riversided at the Kanchana Ghat are several chhattris (cenotaphs) which are luminous at dawn and awesome in the setting sun.

Jhansi
The legendary exploits of the young warrior queen who defied the English and fought them for her son;s inheritance come alive as you ride into Jhansi Fort, built by Raja Bir Singh Deo, in 1613.

Wandering along the ramparts your guide points out the grassy knoll by the outer walls where she leapt with her horse, baby son strapped to her back, to foil the attempts of the English to capture her. Looking down from another point along the ramparts faces Rani Mahal, the palace outside the precincts of the fort, where the widowed Rani Lakshmi Bai was forced by the English for the return of the fort, the land and the wealth (that belonged to her young son) failed, she broke into open rebellion accompanied by her loyal soldiers.

At the entrance lies the famous Kadak Bijli Tope (cannon) which Rani Lakshmi Bai could not fire on the English troops because a temple lay in the way. On the way to the Shiva temple where she worshipped, you'll pass through the gardens where she would take her habitual strolls. The Kal kotri housed the small cells where the English incarcerated freedom fighters. Nearby is the place where they hung them. You can still see the mouth of the secret passage to the Rani Mahal which had been blocked by the English.

Rani Mahal now has a small museum housing sculptures from the 9th and 12th centuries. On display at the State Museum are old terracotta and bronze statues, weaponry, manuscripts, paintings and coins of both silver and gold. Jhansi's church of St. Jude is a popular pilgrimage site for needy supplicants in search of the saint's blessings. The annual Jhansi Festival held in February / March features a cultural programme, and the arts and crafts of the region.

For More Information: www.incredibleindia.org; www.mptourism.com