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India can maintain 9% GDP: Montek
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  Aromatherapy, Unani
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  Lucknow: the city of Culture and Power
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07. TRAVEL

LUCKNOW: THE CITY OF CULTURE AND POWER

Once a Capital ruled by colorful nawabs, Lucknow is still the Capital of India’s largest state – Uttar Pradesh. Situated close to the legendary Gomti River, the city continues to provide fascinating links with the past by way of its grand buildings and rich traditions – the refined ‘Lucknawi’ hospitality. Old names and landmarks, the fragrance of attar (natural perfume) , appetizing whiffs of cuisine continue to be part of of present –day Lucknow. The Nawabs, with their refined tastes and a marked eye for beauty, were great patrons of art and architecture. Classical music, dance traditions and the celebrated Awadhi cuisine and stately buildings are legacy of Nawabs.

It was primarily under the last Nawab of Awadhi- Nawab Wajid Ali Shah - that Lucknow witnessed an unprecedented artistic flowering. He had a passion for cultural activities and devoted himself to poetry, music and introduced many dance forms. The Lucknow gharana (school) of Khatak reached new heights during his reign. In 1856, the British annexed Lucknow and deposed Nawab Wajid Ali Shah. Britishers demolished many beautiful structures (several are still intact and even those in ruins continue to provide rich glimpse of the past). The imambaras and mosques have a distinct Persian influence, while key buildings like the palaces of the Nawabs are more European style.

PALACES
Qaiser  Bagh Palace: Qaiser Bagh, built by Nawab Wajid Ali Shah, was once the most magnificent palace in Lucknow. Carvings of fish – royal emblem of the Nawabs – adorn many of the structures. At the Safaid Baradari, now an office building, the Nawab dressed as a fakir,used to hold court. The Lal Baradari now houses a a fine arts academy as also the archeological section of the State Museum. The Pathar Wari Baradari now serves as school for Hindustani music. Two ornate tombs- the Tomb of Nawab Saadat Ali Khan (the fifth Nawab) and the Tomb of Khurshid Zadi, his wife- are also noteworthy.

Chhattar Manzil or Umbrella Palace: An umbrella shapes gilt dome (chhattar) inspired the name of this unusual palace. Built during the reign of Saadat Ali Khan (1798-1814), the Chhattar Manzil had a basement constructed below the level of the Gomti river, sot that its waters could keep the area cool in summer. It now houses the Central Drug Research Institute.

Daulat Khana: The Daulat Khana, palace of Asaf-ud-Daula, was built in late 1780s. Lying to the northwest of Jami Masjid, it includes numerous Indo-European buildings; the most striking being Asafi Khoti with its semi-circular bays.

IMAMBARAS OR CEREMONIAL HALLS
The imambaras – Bara and Chhota – of Lucknow are impressive, both architecturally and historically. Built in1784, the Bara (Great) Imambara is used during Muharram. The elaborate gates give a foretaste of what lies within. Its most remarkable feature is a large hall, 50-m long and 15-m high, totally unsupported by pillars. Above it, is the bhulbhulaiya – a maze of balconies and passages. Of particular interest is the 18-m high Rumi Darwaza embellished with decorations. Close to the Rumi Darwaza, Aurangzeb’s Mosque stands on a mound known as lakshman Tila.

A  Picture Gallery, located in the 19th-century Baradari, displays imposing life-size portraits of the ten Nawabs of Awadh. To the west, is the ornate Hussainabad Imambara, better known as Chhota Imambara.

Crowned by a delicate gold dome, its interiors are profusely adorned. The walls are engraved with beautifully executed calligraphy. To its southwest, lies the Jami Masjid, with embellished walls and arches. At the Shah Najaf Imambara, to the west of Sikander Bagh, lies the tomb of Ghazi-ud-din Haider (the sixth Nawab).

OTHER PLACES OF INTEREST

Sikander Bagh: The royal pleasure garden of the Nawabs of Awadh has been named after the last Nawab’s favorite queen Sikander. The National Botanical Gardens and Research Centre are now located here.

The Residency: The large brick home of the British Resident, better known as Residency, was built in1857 and still carries strong reminders of 1857 mutiny.

On the ground floor is a model depicting British defences during the Siege. In a small museum, the gaping holes made by cannon fire are all too visible. Lying below are the cellars where the women and children took shelter.

Hussainabad Clock Tower: Erected in 1887, the 67-m high Gothic tower was built to mark the arrival of sir Geoge Cooper, Awadh’s first lieutenant governor.

La Martiniere: A fanciful chateau was built in 1793 by Major General Claude Martin, a French soldier and acclaimed as the richest European in Lucknow. Four huge octagonal towers with numerous rooms add to the majesty of La Martiniere. The exterior is elaborately decorated with a variety of animals and mythological figures. One of the two cannons and the bronze bell was cast by Martin himself. In 1840, the building became a school for boys.

State Museum: At the southeastern corner of the city, situated in the Zoological Gardens, is Lucknow’s Museum. Its collection includes stone sculptures from the 2nd century BC, rare silver gold coins, and 16th century paintings.

SHOPPING
Main shopping areas are Chowk, Daliganj, Aminabad and Hazratganj. The Chowk is the city’s bustling old quarter stretching from Gol Darwaza to Akbari Darwaza. It is a maze of narrow galis (lanes) lined with shops sellin a range of goods from Lucknow’s famed chinkankari – fine muslin delicately embroidered with threadwork – to attar (natural perfumes in elegant bottles). Aminabad too is well known for its attar. Daliganj is a good place for chikan work. Hazratganj is the city’s most fashionable, upmarket shopping centre and commercial hub.

The Chowk is also the best place to sample some authentic Awadhi cuisine (especially a range of succulent kebabs and biryani). Lucknow is also famous for it’s Dussehri / Langra mangoes from nearby Juanpur and Chausa mangoes from Rampur region.

Fact File: Gwalior

Best Season: October to March
STD Code: 0751

How to get there:
Air: Lucknow is connected to Chennai, Kanpur, Delhi, Mumbai by Air.

Rail: Lucknow, on the Northern and North-Eastern Railway is directly connected with major cities and all other main places in India.

Road: Lucknow is connected by road with Agra 314km, Allahabad 225km, Kolkatta 985km, Corbett National Park 280km, Delhi 514km, Kanpur 79km, Varanasi 314km etc.

Accomadation: Taj Residency, Hotel Clarks, Avadh, Hotel Sagar International, Kohinoor Hotel, Hotel Gomti, La Palace Park Inn, Hotel Charans International, Hotel Deep Avadh, Presidency Inn, Deep hotel Gemini Continental, Mohan Hotel, YMCA.

UP Goverment Tourist Information Office: 36, Janpath, New Delhi - 110001. Tel: 011-23322251, 23711296.

India Tourism C88, Janpath, New Delhi 110001.
Tel: 011-23320342, 23320005 / 8. Fax: 011-23320109. Email: goitodelhi@tourism.nic.in

For More Information: www.incredibleindia.org; www.up-tourism.com



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