Nanda Devi, Naina Devi, Parvati -call her what you will, but it is here that the goddess reigns supreme - in the hearts of her people, the gentle folk of Kumaon - for this is her birthplace and she is the revered daughter of this land where shrines and lofty temples have been raised to her by king and commoner since antiquity. 'The legends of Nanda Devi are inextricably woven into the magical Kumaon. Himalayas and whether you are a visitor to her lovely hill resorts, or an adventure seeker amongst her glacial heights, the power of her presence and benediction embraces yon and moves you in some indefinable way. Little wonder then that these hills continue to bewitch us with the wonder of their beauty and solace.

Uttaranchal's Kumaon region comprises the districts of Nainital, Almora, Begeshwar, Piithoragarh, Chapmawat, and Udham Singh Nagar. Centred in the Nanda Devi Sanctuary is Nanda Devi Peak, the birthplace of the patron goddess of Kumaon and Garhwal, surrounded by her retinue of some of the most stunning peaks in the Himalayas.

Nanda Devi (7820m), India’s highest peak marks the northern boundary between Kumaon and Garhwal. To the south lie Nanda Ghunti (6309m), Trisul (7120m), Nanda Kot (6860m), to the northeast are Hardeol (7151m) and Trisuli 1 (7074m) and Rishi Pahar (6992m), while the Panchchuli range, to the southeast of her, separates the Gauri Ganga from the Kali (Sharda) river which defines the borderlands of Nepal and India.

Furthermost to the north, running along its borders with Tibet, lies the Trans-Himalayan or Tethys heights of the glacial, wind-swept expanses accessing the home of the holiest mountain for Hindus, Mt Kailash, in Tibet via Pithoragarh. The Greater Himalaya comprises a world of lofty snow-clas peaks and whose glacial expanses give rise to the snowfed rivers of the region.

The adjoining region of the highly populated lesser Himalaya stands cheek by jowl to the richly forested Terai-Bhabar region surrounded by the Shivalik, the narrow corridor of low hills running almost parallel to Himachal Pradesh’s main ranges from east to west. The land is watered by the Kali, Dhauli Ganga, Gauri Ganga, Saryu and Kutfi rivers and the region’s four major glaciers are he Pindari, Kafni, Milam and Sunderdhunga.

he scattering of lakes in the region have created some of the most popular holiday destinations in Kumaon. The verdant expanses of the unique eco-system of this region (richly endowed in forests of cypress, deodar, sal, pine and rhododendron, inhabited by a dazzling range of wildlife, domestic and migratory avifauna and butterflies) is an important buffer between the lower foothills and the region’s glacial heights.

Lake District

Kumaon’s ‘Lake District’ falls between 4,000ft-8500ft, providing vacationers a mélange of exciting holiday experiences. Nainital, Bhimtal, Naukuchiatal and Sattal are the most popular ones but there are several lesser explored water bodies scattered over the region. Almora ruled once by the Chand rajas is an important market toen and gateway to Kumaon’s Lake District. The drive up to this 500 year old hill town offers glimpses of the mind-boggling panorama of the Kumaon peaks, and on clear day even Nanda Devi might reveal herself. The Nanda Devi Fair is held every year in August.

Nainital

The summer retreat of the government of the United Provinces of the Raj era is one of north India's most popular holiday destinations. Built around the lake - the eye of the goddess Naina Devi, consort, of Lord Shiva, it oilers visitors a blissful respite from the dust and heat of the Northern plains. The Naina Devi Temple by the shore of the lake is situated where legend has it that the eye of Parvati fell after she was dismembered by Lord Vishnu.Boat rides, birdwatching, soft treks and bikes around the hillsides are popular pastimes.

Bhimtal and Naukuchiatal with their serene hikes offer exciting opportunities for boating, angling and bird watching. Sattal is good for camping, walks, mountain biking, boating, rock climbing and angling.

Mountain Delight

For those of us who aren't equipped with the spirit of daredevilry to go tramping off amongst the glacial height of the Kumaon hills, there are tamer ways to enjoy the cornucopia of mountain splendour. You can instead enjoy the vistas from the safety of your hotel itself, or from the gentle walks scattered around the hillsides. From Mukteshwar, on a clear day, you get a 180°  views  of Himalayan peaks – Nanda Kot, Nanda Ghunti, Trisul in the centre next to Nanda Devi’s twin ( east and west) peaks, then Panchchuli, and if it’s a really good day Api and Napha in Nepal. The Ramgarh and Nathuakhan area serves up some of the most uninterrupted Himalayan vistas to holidaymakers.

Ranikhet, home of the Indian army’s Kumaon Regiment, has a beautiful golf range at Upat, pinic spot, gental walks and mountain views. The lush natural settings of Didihat, 54km from Pithoragarh, offer glorious views of the Panchchuli range. From Binsar savour that endless stretch of 300km of striking panoramas including Trisul in the centre, Nandha Ghunti to the west; east of Nanda Devi is Nanda Kot, followed by Panchchuli extending from the Trail Pass. Enjoy those grandstand views of the Nanda Devi range and the Katyur Valley from the old circuit house at Kausani with its Anashakti Yoga Ashram set up by Mahatma Gandhi in 1929. Bageshwar by the Gomti and Saryu rivers serves up awesome views of Nanda Devi, Nanda Kot, and Nanda Khat. Munsiyari, the biggest town of Kumaon’s Johor region and the base for several trekking routes to Kumoan’s glacial heights, has grandstand views of the Panchchuli range.

Trekking
To discover the dramatic natural beauty and awesome heights of the Kumaon Himalayas there are many favoured trekking routes into these pristine ranges for the fit and adventurous of heart which have attracted visitors from both home and abroad. The trekking season is before monsoons, May-June, and again from October-November when the rains end.