The area today called Chennai was privileged to receive St Thomas, one of Jesus's 12 apostles, who came to southern India shortly after Jesus died, spread Christianity and settled and died in modern Mylapore (in Chennai). Later, through the 7th-8th centuries the same Mylapore was a vital port for the Pallava dynasty. The Pallavas built statements of their greatness in the form of temples in both Mylapore and another area, now part of modern Chennai, called Triplicane. Modern Chennai was fashioned out of fishing hamlets and surrounding areas by the British, with the establishment of an English East India Company fortification -Fort St George - in 1640. This was the seed and birthplace of the British Empire in India. Another area of Chennai with historical roots is Egmore, once a small village acquired by the'tast India Company and later, the luxuriant res spread of wealthy Company officials. Even todav, geographically, Chennai can be understood as an agglomerate of these four focal points: Mylapore, Triplicane, Fort St George and Egmore.
The bvgone era breathes on here in Chennai's many churches, temples, colonial architecture and memorabilia, in the midst of its lifeblood:Carnatic concerts, currv leaves, coconuts and coffee, perfect dosas and pungent sambar, a passion for local cinema and a love for Marina Beach - one of the longest in India.
Fort St George
Named after St George, the patron saint of England, Fort St George was English East India Company's first bastion in India, and for more than a century, their principal settlement. "Ehe first factory inside the fortified area was completed in 1640 and weavers and dyers were established there to manufacture cloth for the Company's trade. The area around the Fort was known as Chenna-patnam (that's where Chennai gets its present name) and also George Town. The fort is still the seat of the government of Tamil Nadu, and is alive with heritage buildings and contemporary life. Among the oldest surviving British architecture in India, the Secretariat and the Legislative Council Chambers are majestic with their stately black columns. The 48-m high flagstaff is still the tallest to be seen in India. The Fort Museum has memorabilia from the English and French East India Companies and weaponry, emblems, lithographs and other relics of the Raj. The High Court, an important landmark in Chennai, is an I ndo-Saracenic building finished in 1892 and said to be the second largest judicial complex in the world after the courts of London.
Churches
St Mary's Church, inside the Fort, was built in 1678-80 and is the oldest Anglican Church in Asia. It is rich in history with old British tombstones in its courtyard, antique bibles, memorials and paintings. The Basilica of San Thome, situated at the southern end of Marina Beach, has its own importance, being built over the tomb of St Thomas, the famous 'Doubting Thomas'. He lived in Mylapore and was killed on St Thomas Mount just outside the city in 78AD, where he was interned. Later, in the 16th century, the Portuguese built the settlement of San Thome, and another church where his mortal remains were transferred. In 1898 the church was made into a Gothic-style basilica with beautiful stained glass windows.
|
St Andrew's Kirk on Periyar EYR
High Road dates from 1821 and is a grand edifice in the neo-classical stvle. The church has Corinthian capitals supporting an impressive deep blue dome painted with stars. The 50-in high steeple affords stunning views of the city. Luz Church, in South Chennai, was built in the 16th century by Portuguese sailors. The oldest church in Chennai, it is dedicated to Our Ladv of Light.
Temples
Kapaleeswarar Temple is an 8th century Pallava temple situated in Mylapore, which was a port under the Pallava dynasty. The Dravidian stvle temple has a high 'Gopuram'. It is dedicated to Shiva who is symbolised here as a peacock. It is adorned with beautiful sculptures including the bronze idols of 63 Shaivite Saints (Nayanmars).
Sri Parthasarathy Temple, situated in Triplicane, is dedicated to Krishna in his role as Arjuna's charioteer. The temple was originally built in the 9th century by the Pallavas, and additions were later made to it by the Chola and Vijayanagara kings.
Beaches
Along the Coromandal Coast runs the famous Marina Beach, one of the longest urban beaches in the world. The beautiful promenade along the sandy shore is a favourite place of Chennai's denizens to enjoy the sea breeze. Many majestic buildings adorn the beachfront. South of Marina is Elliot's Beach, a place for a more relaxed time.
Other attractions
Chennai hosts the world head quarters of the Theosophical Society, formed to facilitate and encourage the study of comparative religion, philiosophy and science. Situated in Adyar since 1882, its spacious gardens offer an atmosphere of immense tranquility.
Kalakshetra is situated beyond Elliot's Beach and was founded in 1936 by Rukmini Devi Arundale to encourage classical dance and music, especially Bharatanatyam, which is the classical dance form of the state.
MGR Film City is named after the highly popular lamil matinee idol M .G Ramchandran, and provides a peep into the amazing starry world choice of einporia for traditional arts of Tamil cinema.
Madras Snake Park was started in 1970s and is a well-maintained house for several species of snakes.
Shopping
Chennai offers a great shopping experience with some of the swankiest and largest retail stores in the country. There is a wide choice for tne trendiest global brands as well as ethnic chic. Anna Salai has a and crafts; T Nagar, Mount Road, and Egmore offer many shopping plazas.
Mamallapuram
Once a great port under the Pallava dynasty, Mamallapuram staked its claim to everlasting fame hosting the most eloquent remains of ancient Dravidian temple architecture and sculpture, comprising rock-cut cave shrines, monolithic temples and sculpted rock panels. |
These 7th-century temples, wistfully gazing at the sea, were not finished or consecrated, so no worship is carried out here. Unoccupied and free of the bustling activity of places of worship, thev convey a sense of serenity and agelessness.Pallava King Narsimha Varman I, who was popularly called Mamalla, built these monuments to his piety; the entire site is named after him and is recognised as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The monuments are floodlit at night making them everynore spectacular.
Shore Temple: Perhaps the most famous monument here is the Shore Temple, silhouetted against the sea. It is enchantingly beautiful and achingly so when lit bv moonlight. The 6-feet high temple has two Shiva shrines co-existing with a Vishnu shrine, and its temple walls have large statues of Lord Shiva's vehicle, the bull Nandi. The carved Shikharas atop the edifice are eminently graceful.
Cave Temples: There are nine rock-cut cave temples, depicting scenes and figures from Hindu mythology. Of these, the Mahishasuramardhini Cave, showing the goddess fighting the buffalo-headed demon Mahisha-sura, as well as Lord Vishnu in serene cosmic sleep, is very special.
Rathas: Mamallapuram hosts a group of 5 temples called "rathas" (carriages) and named after the Pandavas - Draupadi, Dharmaraja, Arjuna, Bhima, and Xakul-Sahdeva.
However, the temples are not shaped as Rathas (in fact, each showcases a different shape, size and sculptured detail) and are not dedicated to the Pandavas either; it's just local nomenclature that has stuck! For instance, the smallest Draupadi Ratha enshrines Durga while the Arjuna Ratha is notable for a sculpture of Shiva leaning gracefully on his bull Nandi. In the Dharmaraja Ratha, vou can see a portrait-sculpture of King Mamalla himself, on the south wall, identifiable by the inscription above his image, keeping companv with the gods in the other corners. It is astonishing to think that these works of art, including the three-storied Dharmaraja Ratha were carved from a single piece of rock.
Arjuna's Penance: This 90-feet high rock face has breathtaking carvings depicting scenes from the Mahabharata and is one of the largest bas-reliefs in the world. The figure performing penance is claimed to be Arjuna placating Shiva, but some say it is Sage Bhagiratha asking Shiva to control the force of the (ianga as she falls down from the heavens.
Mamallapuram Dance Festival is that takes place over a month in December-January. The monuments provide a sumptuous backdrop to performances of classical Indian dances such as Bharatanatyam, K u c h i p u d i, Kathakali, Mohini Attam, Odissi, Kathak, etc., which are performed by well-known artistes of India during the w eekends.
Shopping: Pick up stone sculptures by local artistes along te shore, whose ancestors shaped the temples you visited.
|
