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Indias External Engagement a
Whopping 500 Billion
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06. CULTURE |
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THE SPICE ROUTE |
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Ghranena ardhabhojana
(inhaling is half the meal)-what could be more evocative of
the ethos of an Indian feast, redolent with a myriad spices? As you
travel through this land of infinite cultural nuances, what strikes
you is the sheer variety of natural produce and of the chefs
indispensable spice box. Cardamom, cinnamon, cloves, ginger, turmeric,
saffron, tamarind, bay, coriander, cumin, anise, fenugreek, asafoetida,
peppercorns, chillies, nutmeg, mace, mango powder, poppy, mustard,
garlic, ajwain, nigella
Ground and pounded and whole, dried and
fresh and roasted, their magic touch transforms the humblest leaves,
the cheapest cuts into culinary masterpieces. |
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Speaking of spices, lets debunk the myth of curry
powder. This favourite of the Western larder finds no
counterpart in Indian kitchens. As curries across the
land vary from the lightest broth to eye-wateringly
pungent and unctuously creamy, so do their spices.
Derived from the old Tamil kaikaari (gravy), curry
now embraces saucy dishes of every description. Kashmir
alone boasts a spectrum from cool yoghurt-based yakhni
to paprika-laden rogan josh. If youre lucky, youll
be served a wazawan (multi-course banquet) culminating
in legendary gushtaba (pounded meatballs).
Bengals estuarine palate roams from simple maach
bhaja (fried fish) to delicately seasoned jhol (light
stew) and bhaapa (steamed fish), to sharp jhal (mustard-paste
marinated), milky malai-kari (with coconut cream), sweetly
rich kalia and tangy doi (yoghurt) maach.
As in Bengal, the geography encourages paddy plantations
further south, but it is more than steamed rice you
mop up curries with rice and lentil batters are
fermented, flavoured, steamed or griddled for the assortment
of unleavened rice breads counterparts to
the Northern wheat-based rotis.
Keralas Syrian Christians offer ishtew (in cardamom-flavored
coconut milk) with appams (rice pancakes). Try a classic
Alleppey fish curry, tart with tamarind or kukum berries.
When you tire of seafood, choose spicy meat fry
(really a drier curry) or pathiri dished up with parottas
(pried flatbreads). The vegetarian saddya (meal) with
its dazzling array of thoran (dry veggies), olan (beans
and gourd in coconut milk), aviyal (coco nutty, tangy),
kalan (yoghurt-based), erisseri (lentils amd yam) will
not disappoint, accompanied by rasam (peppery tamarind-water)
and sambar.
Through Tamilian cuisine is inextricably bound to visions
of dosas, idlis, uttapams and vadas, these are mere
snacks. Brahmins dish up a blander saapad, aromatic
yet divinely easy on the palate.
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Their Chettiar cousins incorporate
in their repertoire just about everything that grows
or moves: sun-dried legumes, berries and kalpasi fungi
make their way into curries, as do every kind of game
rabbit, quail, pigeon. Their signature dish is
Chettinad chicken (with whole peppercorns) Sit down
for Mudaliar meal- vazhaipoo vadai (fried banana-blossom
rissoles), with perhaps kathirikkai varwal (masala stuffed
brinjal in sour gravy), a plethora
of kozhambu (curries) with green masala, tamarind and
pepper, and pakoda kurma (dumpling curry).
Goan curries of Portuguese antecedent yield fierier
dishes still.
Konkani cuisine often uses the indigenous cashew liquor,
feni for marinade. Picking and drying are common techniques
(as in the famed prawn balchao, dried Bombay Duck and
spicy choriz sauages), with liberal use of chillies
and garlic. Pork dishes are a dime a dozen when the
fierce monsoon interrupts fishing: jaggery-alleviated
vindaloo, sorpotel, aad maas, and tripas literally go
the whole hog. Christmas week celebrates the best seafood-
xinanio (oysters) breaded and fried: promfret, mackerel
and kingfish stuffed with spicy-sour recheado masala,
zawb(mussels) and cawrpa (clams) in their shells.
Maharashtra bridges the North-South divide, as with
Goan pao (sourdough) puris and polis (fried breads)
punctuate the staple of rice. Foods are than ghee-drenched
North Indian and chilly pungent Southern spices.
Neighboring Karnataka offers less coconut and seafood,
producing sweet-sour vegetable and lentil curries. Gram-flour
makes an insistent appearance, as thickening agent and
in batters and dumplings. Nilgiri spices are undercut
by kokum and jaggery.
On the far side of the peninsula, Hyderabadi cuisine
derives from the kitchen of the Nizam rulers. Richer
Andhra spice mixes feature saffron and mace in stellar
biryanis, meat curries abound, but a notable partiality
for brinjal results as mustard-tempered baghaare baingan.
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Gujarat remains
a vegetarian bastion, despite the piscetarian Parsis with their
banana-leaf bound patra nu macchi. Sweet-sour curries make liberal
use of peanuts and chickenpeas. Fresh vegetables are none too
varied here or in neighboring Rajastan, but locals take full
and delicious advantage of what is to hand. Witness the popular
kadhi, gram-flour dumplings in yoghurt gravy.
On the whole, drier dishes are the rule in a region with fresh
water at a premium. Rajasthani eats epitomize this. Rice gives
ways to rotis of millet, wheat or corn. Spicy gatta, cousin
of the kadhi, accompanies the regional speciality of ker-sangri
(desserts berries with beans). Experience daal-baati-churma
charcoal-baked dough balls with daal and sweetened wheat
crumble. Game is a rare feast, with the famed lal maas, sunset-hues
from a paste of red chillies.
In the Land of the Five Rivers, milk curds and paneer (cottage
cheese) dishes abound. Punjabi foods feature uncomplicated combinations
of herbs and the smoky aroma of a clay tandoor. Tandoori roti
and butter chicken at roadside dhabas remain crowd-pleasers,
but the piece de resistance in the winter special of sarson
ka saag (pureed mustard greens) and makke di roti (cornflour
flatbread).
In sharp contrast are the elaborate marinades and layered aromas
of UP. There are many exquisite kebabs, each typical cut bathed
in a different masala: galauti (melt-in-the mouth morsels created
for a dentionally-challenged nawab), pasanda, shammi (mincemeat
with gram), kakori, seekh
all accompanied by flaky-layered
lachhedar paranthas, rumali (kerchief) rotis and naan. Dun pukht
(sweated in dough-sealed handis) pulaos and vegetables are the
norm in side dishes; creamy saffron-scented kormas the counterpoint.
Subtly tempered daals each have their own specific tadka. |
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