|
Mughal Refinement
The history of the Indian brocades so popular on runways
now begins in sixteen-century Varanasi. Renowned for
its gossamer-fine cotton muslins for over 2000 years,
the Mughal emperors’ patronage resulted in a new
expertise at weaving silk with gold and silver thread.
The motifs were such as favoured by the Mughals-floral
(especially the paisley), animal or geometric. Also
born of Mughal patronage is Zardozi. This flourishing
embroidery of zari (gold thread) and beads came first
to Agra all the way from Central Asia, but the only
city refined upon it and created more complex pattern
for the courts.
Home-grown Wonders
Perhaps more venerable is the indigenous technique of
Kalamkari (‘pen-work’, after the bamboo wand
used for colouring in). The intricate patterns of these
brightly coloured cottons are native to Andra Pradesh.
Evolved by both dyeing and painting, deities, flora
and fauna are drawn in outline, then filled with natural
colours with the cotton swab of the kalam (pen).
Saris-Six yards of Magic
The beauty of Indian textiles is best exemplified in
the most popular garment of the women-the sari, simply
six yards of fabric to wrap oneself in. So treat yourself
to exquisite bandhini (tie-dye) saris from Gujarat or
Rajasthan or the striking Ikats (woven from tie-dyed
threads) of Andhra and Orissa. Choose a silk that whispers
‘heritage’ from spangled Varanasi brocade,
figured and storied Bengal baluchari, or stately Kanjeevaram
and Mysore silks.
Tamil Nadu’s favourite success story-in saris-emulates
Varanasi’s. Kanchipuram was a centre for both weaving
and trading in cotton until as recently as the nineteenth
century, when the wealth of the mulberry silk from neighbouring
Karnataka turned its attentions to silk. Today its saris
are renowned for their luster and boldly contrasted
borders, the twisted-yarn silk is often embellished
with motifs in zari.
A Gujarat Wonder
Distinct is the patola double Ikat fabric from Gujarat.
Jewels, animals,
|
|
dancers and flowers are interwoven
with geometric frames in highly-prized saris taking
a month each to complete. Exported to Indonesia, it
is honoured there as the cloth of the royal court.
Cotton Comfort
Some of the finest cotton handlooms come from Bengal,
with its fine Dhakai muslins, braid-pallued dhonekhali,
figure-worked bishnupuris and endless grades of tangail,
not to mention the silk baluchari.
Contemporary Indian Garments
Uncertain whether these voluminous wraps will fit your
contemporary wardrobe? Pick up the same weaves in scarves,
linen or furnishings, even shirts and trousers. And
don’t ignore the uniqueness of tussar and muga
silks, cultivated only in the subcontinent. The humble
jute, yesterday’s gunnybag, is today’s fashion
fabric.
Yet woven patterns are a mere third of the saga: there
are prints and needlework too! Perhaps the most famed
of prints are the batiks (a wax resist technique 2000
years old). Block-rints abound across the country, stylized
according to the local history of the crafts-Gujarat,
in particular, excels.
Embroidery
Embroidery techniques outnumber the states themselves.
Notable are the run-stitched kantha (named after its
original use in recycling old lengths for a child’s
layette), replete with rural scenes from Bengal; stylized
Heer and Kutchi work from Gujarat; Rajastani mirrorwork;
Lucknow chikan, with its delicate tone-on-tone shadow-stitching;
Oriya pipli patchwork; exquisite Punjabi phulkari motifs.
Look out for the heavy beaded patterns of the northern
states, and particularly for handicrafts where the beads
are the very fabric rather than an adornment.
Woollen Fabric
Oddly, wool isn’t often associated with Indian
fabrics, despite the popularity of pashmina. But your
friends back home will surely appreciate the double-sided
Kashmiri dorukha shawl, with needle-work so
|
