Nestled at the foothills of the majestic Himalayas, in the picturesque Uttaranchal state of India, voted one of the world’s best spas by the Conde Nast Traveller, Ananda now happens to be one of the hottest spa destinations for world-weary travellers.

As the car approached what I would call the driveway to heaven, I realised that we were now climbing in a blur of Sal trees. The air was suddenly a lot cooler, and perfumed with a mountain smell, and the intriguing yellow highway signs now far more frequent: ‘Don’t try to fly or your family will cry!’ No doubt, we were ascending into the mystical embrace of the Himalayas.

Ananda came about when the Maharaja of Tehri Garhwal leased a chunk of his palace and his sloping, wooded estate in the hills above Rishikesh to a consortium of hospitality industry heavy-hitters; they put together something extremely posh, something up-in-the-hills and upmarket. A ‘destination spa,’ to differentiate it from other run-of-the-mill health spas. Something they were positioning as ‘the quintessential health and wellness choice’.

So far, the whole place was quite unreal and impressive. The car had dropped me at the reception area of the old palace, which looked very nice as old palaces go: nothing overstated in the architecture, just your normal, cream-yellow, politely proportioned little Indian palace.

From the driveway onwards, no cars are allowed into the grounds, for the sake of air purity. So I hopped into an electric golf-cart down to be driven down the steep slope to the new buildings, which included the rooms, the restaurant and the spa itself.
By the time I checked into my room, it was sunset, and for a moment the window in my room was picture postcard perfect, with a red ball of fire slipping away into oblivion but not before highlighting snow-peaked mountain caps in their full glory. I couldn’t wait to see the sunrise the next morning.

But it was time for dinner and I headed to the restaurant to check out the ‘spa menu’. The ‘rejuvenation cuisine’ was scrumptious, and the unmistakable flavour of fresh vegetables and herbs made it indeed

quite healthy. After a satisfying meal, I retired to bed early, dreaming of all the spa treatments I had traveled 3000 miles to experience.

I awoke up to witness the most beautiful sunrise ever the next morning. Gleaming snow provided a breathtaking backdrop to the cascading waters of the River Ganges, miles of lush greenery with tall conical trees lining pathways like soldiers guarding treasure. It is very easy to think that you were in paradise.

After that initial visual feast, I started my day with soul food – yoga, that is. The sessions at Ananda are conducted by certified gurus on the sprawling green lawns of the hotel. The combination of fresh air and yoga whipped up quite an appetite, which was quelled by feasting on a breakfast of only high-fibre, whole-grain carbs and fresh fruits.
And now for my first spa experience, the moment I had anticipated for so long. My masseuse Tirtha (how apt a name, meaning pilgrimage, since this place is a popular Hindu pilgrimage city), her flawless complexion glowing, asked me if I would like to get into my massage ‘gear’, while handing me the tiniest piece of sarong-like garment to tie around my waist, taking no notice of my embarassment.
The Ancient Indian Honey and Sandalwood Rub was the choice of treatment of ancient Indian bridegrooms, explained Tirtha. It felt like being rubbed over by scented sandpaper, but quite pleasant nevertheless to be exfoliated with a mixture of local indigenous honey, sandalwood, valerian, globe thistle and vetiver. I could feel her words fading away as my eyelids felt heavy. Tirtha gently woke me up from my blissful sleep state to cover me with a dry wrap around my body. She then proceeded to give me a nourishing scalp massage, but before I could doze off again, she led me to the invigorating Himalayan Spring Water Shower. I came out of the shower feeling as fresh as a daisy and my skin as smooth as silk- I was ready to impress people in my new avatar!
More nutritious food followed in the afternoon, which culminated in the evening’s cultural performances organized by the hotel. It was magical to hear the amphitheatre, resound to the tinkling of ankle bells and the melodious strains of the sitar amidst the gorgeous mountain setting and against backdrop of the magnificent Himalayas. I could get used to this lifestyle!

My rendezvous with Tirtha began next day after lunch, with the luxurious Himalayan Honey and Rose Facial, supposedly Ananda’s most nourishing and hydrating facial. By now a friend, Tirtha applied a mixture of indigenous raw honey and pure Himalayan rose water on my face. She then covered my face and neck with cooling cucumber slices. In the meantime, she pampered me with a hand and foot massage. Hot and cool facial compresses completed the therapy leaving me totally revitalized. I was won over, and promised Tirtha that I’d return for more spa